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Desert varnish seen well here. Desert Varnish On Rocks And Boulders One of the most remarkable biogeochemical phenomena in arid desert regions of the world is desert varnish. Although it may be only a hundredth of a millimeter in thickness, desert varnish often colors entire desert mountain ranges black or reddish brown.
Desert varnish is a thin coating patina of manganese, iron and clays on the surface of sun-baked boulders. According to Ronald I. Dorn and Theodore M. Oberlander Science Volume, desert varnish is formed by colonies of microscopic bacteria living on the rock surface for thousands of years.
The bacteria absorb trace amounts of manganese and iron from the atmosphere and precipitate it as a black layer of manganese oxide or reddish iron oxide on the rock surfaces. This thin layer also includes cemented clay particles which help to shield the bacteria against desiccation, extreme heat and intense solar radiation.
Several genera of bacteria are known to produce desert varnish, including Metallogenium and Pedomicrobium. They consist of minute spherical, rod- shaped or pear-shaped cells only 0. In fact, the individual cells are smaller than human red blood cells which are about 7. Because of the radiating filaments from individual cells and colonies, they are called appendaged bacteria. All living systems require the vital energy molecule ATP adenosine triphosphate in order to function.
In our cells ATP is constantly produced within minute bodies called mitochondria. As electrons flow along the membranes of our mitochondria, molecules of ATP are generated. The electrons come from the breakdown oxidation of glucose from our diet.
Although varnish bacteria do not have mitochondria, they do have a similar inner membrane structure through which electrons flow to generate ATP.
However, in varnish bacteria the electrons come from the oxidation of manganese and iron rather than glucose. Herein lies the marvelous adaptive advantage for producing a layer of black and red varnish on desert boulders. Varnish bacteria thrive on smooth rock surfaces in arid climates. According to Ronald Dorn, perhaps 10, years are required for a complete varnish coating to form in the deserts of the southwestern United States.
In fact, dating of varnished surfaces is of enormous importance to the study of desert landforms and to the study of early humans in America, since many artifacts lying on the ground become coated with desert varnish. Boulders of the Anza-Borrego Desert region are covered with a reddish-brown iron oxide, while boulders in parts of Owens Valley are blackened by a manganese oxide varnish. We can feel the coastal air now- cooler but still the landscape is very dry and devoid of much plant life.
This area is the furthest north the quiver tree Aloe dichotoma is found. Finally we turn right on B-2 and go 30k parallel to a longitudinal dune that is 8k wide and goes all the way to the sea. Dune boarding, sky diving, and quad biking. Very few plants on this wide open road. The desert express train tracks are right between us and the dunes.
Turn left next to a large water pipe that goes to the largest open pit uranium mine in the world. Finally get to Swakopmund at Our reserved lunch spot is now closed so we go to the Ocean Basket for a late but very good fishy lunch. To our hotel Stiltz right on the mouth of the river surrounded by reeds. After check in most rest or nap. Carolyn, Lisa, John and I are in the Villa — a bit over the top but with a good view of the marsh. Bob and I head out to walk along the beach and look in the lagoon for birds — Hartlaubs, gulls, little or Artic or common or Damara tern, great crested tern, three banded and Kittliz and Black smith plovers, red knobbed coots nesting, dabchick, cape teals, Cape cormorants, common sandpiper, common moorhen, purple gallinule, prinia, grey plover, ruddy turnstone, Cape wagtail.
Meanwhile the bag finally arrives… Hurray! Afternoon scenic plane ride is cancelled because of fog to the south of us. We meet at er for our short trip into town to The Hansa — a very fancy hotel and restaurant. Violin and piano playing for us. We were supposed to stay here and I am glad we did not.
Many other guests are dressed up and then there is Jeff. We are not really hungry but manage to eat anyway. It is raining in Windhoek which apparently makes for a very fine day along the coast — weather wise. This is one quiet town on Sunday and a very very clean place. I notice that the blacks are still in positions of servitude and there does not seem to be a very prominent black middle class.
Wake up to overcast day — looking exactly like the Bay area. Cool temperature, the Benguela current keeps it pleasant here. Driving along the coastal road to the west of the large sand dunes that we were east of yesterday coming in.
A small cozy boat that just fits our 11 folks. Pat opted to stay back. There are some Himba women painted bright red with ochre, breasts exposed, making money on the tourists photographing them. We shall see them later at the Skeleton Coast. I begin a short lecture on seabirds while we wait our turn to board.
Then we are off. Billy is delightful and a joy to be with. He clearly enjoys his life. An avid fisherman he is full of good and accurate natural history not to mention jokes about the 84 year old man. Birds and the fur seals were fed by Billy. This human activity is one that I disagree with but happens in many places now where ecotourism has become popular. It gives us a chance to see animals up close but treats them as primarily for our entertainment — not unlike circuses.
That being said, we all enjoyed the close proximity of the Cape Fur seals which hopped on our boat many known with individual stories to boot.
South African Fur Seal Arctocephalus pusillus pusillus This is one of the two subspecies of Arctocephalus pusillus, that are currently recognized.
The other is A. A common name that is frequently used for this species instead of South African fur seal is Cape fur seal. Appearance The males measure about cm and weigh about kg, although weights upto kg have been mentioned. Females are about cm and weigh kg. Pups measure cm and weigh 6 kg at birth. The fur of the males is dark grey on the dorsal side and lighter ventrally. Females have a brownish grey dorsal and a light brown ventral. Pups are black at birth. There is no migration.
Feeding The South African fur seal forages of pelagic shoaling fish and cephalopods. Among the fish maasbanders Trachurus and pichards are the most common, but also anchovies and hakes are eaten. Among the cephalopods Loligois the most common. They consume an estimated kg of fish per animal per year, which means a total consumption of overmetric tons of fish per year for the whole population. While feeding, the seals dive on average 2.
The dives usually go to less than 50m. The deepest recorded dive was to m Kooyman and Gentry, Population dynamics and life history Females become mature at the age of 3. The age at maturity for males is unknown. Gestation lasts about 1 year, which includes a delay of implantation of about 4 months.
Lactation can last upto 12 months, but usually is months. The breeding season lasts from November through December David and Rand, There are no data available on longevity or natural mortality. Trophic relations The fur seal competes for food with dolphins and porpoises and several bird species, such as cape gannetts, jackass penguins and cormorants.
Increases in the fur seal population have caused displacement of several bird colonies. The fur seal are predated upon by sharks and killer whales. Pups are taken by the black-backed jackal. Interactions There is a high degree of interference with commercial fisheries, especially in the purse seine fisheries for pilchard and anchovy and the trawler fisheries for hake. They have been seen taking fish from the nets, or even from the ship and chasing the fish out of the net.
Occasionally some seals will get entangled in the nets and drown. Fur seals also get entangled in lost gear, such as nets and fishing lines. In a survey 0. The annual pup production is aroundThe number of breeding bulls is 13, the average harem size is 28 animals, range: The pup production for was betweenandCressie and Shaughnessy, Exploitation Every year between 60, and 80, pups, aged after the first moult are taken for furs.
Also about 2, males are killed each year. The average pup kill for was 73, per year Cressie and Shaughnessy, Apart from the hunting, the fur seal population is exploited as a major tourist attraction.
Threats to the population None. The problem of entanglement in lost fishing gear should be looked into. This is an unnecessary increase in mortality and is non-specific: The breeding season for both subspecies of A. At this time males haul out on shore at the breeding grounds, or rookeries, to establish territories by displays, sparring, or actual battle.
They do not eat again until they mate in November or December. Females come ashore slightly later and also fight amongst each other for smaller territories in which to give birth. While harem sizes of both subspecies can reach as many as 50 females, or cows, the average size of the South African fur seal harem is 28 cows, the Australian fur seal harem averages 10 cows Schliemann, Breeding occurs between the male and each of his harem members. While copulation occurs about 6 days after cows give birth to a single pup there is a delay in implantation of the blastocyst.
In South African fur seals this delay is approximately 4 months while in Australian fur seals it is about 3 months Riedman, Gestation in both subspecies averages Walvis Bay is the major harbor for all of Namibia- controlled by the British for years.
There is a large oil platform from Nigeria being worked on. An abandoned Russian fishing vessel is now a nesting place for hundreds of Cape cormorants. It is to be sold soon for scrap metal. Cape and white breasted cormorants, eastern African white pelicans, Kelp or lesser black backed gulls, Hartlaubs gulls, terns unidedsooty shearwaters, dabchicks in flight which is unusual to seePomerine jaeger skuagreater crested tern.
Billy feeds the pelicans and Kelp gulls which gives us fine photographic opportunities. We pass the blue drums floating which are the oyster growing sites. An influx of fresh water from the river killed millions of oysters this past year. The scallops that were being cultivated were also killed. There are some older platforms made out of wood that were the earlier oyster beds but wood is hard to come by here in the Namib Desert DUH!!
Sea temp here is 14 can vary Tidal flux max is 1. The overcast sky breaks up as we head to the mouth of the Harbor. The sand is being deposited along the spit at 17 meters per year eventually will block off the mouth. The lighthouse was at the end 30 years ago!! We see both bottlenose and elusive looks at the restricted Benguela dolphins. Back to the dock about back to the town for a very quick overview and then we are on our own to rest or explore. Carolyn, Leslie and I go to the Krystal Gallery.
Simply put it was incredible but I shall not go on and on about it. But it was a highlight for all of us. Good food and good company. Corna talks about the time of apartheid in Namibia, I give a little overview of pinnipeds etc.
Wake up to overcast sky looks just like coastal northern California! Bags ready at 7 we are off at for a k drive north and then northeast to a place even hotter than Sossusvlei!!
We travel north past a two month old shipwreck and can see where the sea crossed the road during the recent big storms. Then we turn right on C 35, the town of Uis is K away. Carolyn has been put in charge of the candy — a mistake! Some springboks and ostriches. Photo stop for Brandberg means burnt mountain due to red granite color.
At meters the highest point in Namibia. The fog ends and the plants get more numerous.
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Euphorbia damarana is now here. To Uis — a former tin mine town — for gas and pit stop. Corna misses the left turn and we see a pair of Nubian vultures.
Back on the right road for a donkey cart with two people that we stop and photograph. Give them some water and some fruit. Another photo op for mountain, star flower looks like Mormon teaand ant tracks. We get to the mopane woodland and healthy looking cows in the river course. A small troop of chacma baboons.
They are very dark. To our gloomy, foreboding lodge on top of dark, ominous granite hill. Designed by Rhinos says John. Very black but quite nice inside. R and R until Jeff goes swimming in the cold pool, very chlorinated.
I give a little talk on the Benguela Current and a geologic overview of Namibia finally.
Then we are off on a walk to the Sandstone Ridge. Yellow mongoose and ground squirrel burrows. We clamber up the ridge for sundowners. Elaine and the Canadian guy are there with the drinks and table. We have a moment of silence as the sun sets behind the mesa at around The temp is dropping fast. And the light is fading so down we go and back on the Lrs to the lodge for dinner at 8. Wake up call and eagle owl? Horses and ostriches out grazing below.
Very cool this am. We will try to remember this later when we are very very hot. Off at looking for the elephants that live in this region — there are three groups of them. Desert adapted but not a separate subspecies. Birds in the am: Auger buzzard, ruppells bustard, white backed mousebirds, probable pririt batis, Ludwig bustard, fiscal shrike, red headed finches, African hawk eagle pair sitting in the shade of a treegray Lorrie aka go away birdcommon or rock kestrel, fork tailed Drongo, gray hornbill, yellow billed hornbill.
We go up a river bed looking for the ellies. We find a couple of rock hyraxes sunning themselves. Nice granite boulders everywhere. Mounds of sand with trees and shrubs growing in them. Mopane is the dominant tree here and throughout Namibia. There seems to be little game in the area. Rosta says because this is granite and does not hold water very well.
North and south of here is basalt and many more animals. Hmmm so why are we here?? This means doubtful spring because of the tendency of the water in the spring to disappear. Annalise is our local Damara guide who shares with us here information about the place. We walk for about 2 hours and have some quiet time among the rocks and petroglyphs.
A baby puff adder, very friendly Dassie Rats among the rocks and trees. We all agree that this is a perfect design for this site. Rock agamas — male and female. Lady luck is with us and after driving through some very soft sand in the river bed, we find the group of about animals with 4 young. One of the youngsters was born very recently. Unfortunately a self drive tourist recently made the mistake of getting out of his car and approaching the herd too close and was stomped.
He is now recovering in the hospital. Corna cannot turn her land rover in the soft sand — not very inspiring!! The herd is often stressed by the tourists here but in spite of that news we get out of the lrs and walk up on the opposite side of the river to see them closer. This makes many of us nervous and others delighted. It sure is a different feeling to be on foot among these massive animals. Getting hot as promised so we head back to the lodge for a late 2 PM lunch.
Everyone is delighted with this news especially our Zoo ladies. We rest and thoroughly enjoy this lodge. The roof is discovered. Dinner at ; it is crowded here with 20 rooms. And all seem occupied. The staff sings some songs for us and then we go outside and have a brief little moon talk. The moon is very close to full right now. There is dew on the steps and temp is about We are packed and off at First stop is martial eagle on the left side of the road and a female Steenbok.
We pass by some fake Victorian dressed manikins; later this day we will see a real lady in her finest garb posing for pictures. We are at the Petrified Forest by but it does not open until 8.
Salmon, our dashing, very sharp looking guide, comes and leads us through the small reserve. Perfect looks at Welwitchia mirabalis Family: Welwitschiaceae welwitschia family Common names: It is one of the few things on Earth that can truly claim to be one of a kind.
There really is nothing like it. Description An adult welwitschia consists of two leaves, a stem base and roots. Its two permanent leaves are unique in the plant kingdom. They are the original leaves from when the plant was a seedling, and they just continue to grow and are never shed. They are leathery, broad, strap-shaped and they lie on the ground becoming torn to ribbons and tattered with age.
The stem is low, woody, hollowed-out, obconical in shape and sturdy. It grows to about mm in height. The largest recorded specimen is in the Messum Mountains and is 1. Carbon dating tells us that on average, welwitschias are years old, although some of the larger specimens are thought to be years old.
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Their estimated lifespan is to years. Growth occurs annually during the summer months. The sexes are separate, i. The male cones are salmon-coloured, small, oblong cone-like structures, and the female cones are blue-green, larger and more tapering. At Kirstenbosch, they flower from midsummer to autumn. The female cone has exposed stigmas and also produces a nectar droplet. Cone-bearing plants are often wind pollinated, producing masses of pollen and all at the same time.
Welwitschia is clearly not wind pollinated, as it produces smaller amounts of pollen, with the nectar to attract insects, and the flowers open in succession over an extended period, which also encourages cross-pollination.
It may be a beetle, but judging by the fact that large distances can separate plants, Ernst van Jaarsveld thinks it is more likely to be a kind of wasp, which he has seen on the male cones in habitat.
The female cones reach maturity in the spring, about 9 months after fertilization. The seeds are 36 x 25 mm and have a large papery wing and are dispersed by wind, in spring, when the female cone disintegrates. In their natural habitat, many seeds are lost to fungal infection and to small desert animals that feed on them. The seeds remain viable for a number of years. They germinate only if fairly heavy rain is spread over a period of several days.
As these conditions rarely occur, it often happens that many plants in some colonies are the same age, as they all germinated in the same good year.
The seedlings, once established,depend on the fog for survival until the next rains occur. There are more remarkable features that make Welwitschia so difficult to categorise: Unlike any other plant, the apical growth point of the stem stops growing from an early stage.
This causes the stem to grow upwards and outwards, away from the original apex which remains deadresulting in the characteristic obconical shape. In older specimens, continued growth results in the undulating of the stem margin. This growth habit is unique. Like other cone-bearing plants gymnosperms e.
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The water-conducting tissue xylem is also typical of the angiosperms. Distribution Welwitschia mirabilis grows in isolated communities in the Namib Desert, in a narrow strip, about 1 km along up the coast from the Kuiseb River in central Namibia to Mossamedes in southern Angola. The plants are seldom found more than to km from the coast, and their distribution coincides with the fog belt.
Welwitschia is still common in its habitat and shows variability, which is a sign that it is far from extinction. They are neither endangered nor rare, nevertheless they are protected by law. Ecology Welwitschia is ecologically highly specialized, and is adapted to grow under arid conditions receiving regular fog.
This regular, dense fog is formed when the cold north-flowing Benguela Current meets the hot air coming off the Namib Desert. The fog develops during the night and usually subsides by about 10 a.
This is an ideal way for it to water its own roots from water collected by condensation. It also has numerous stomata on both leaf surfaces and fog-water is taken up directly through these stomata. The fog has been estimated to contribute 50 mm in annual rainfall, but in spite of the fog, the plants are still dependent on additional sources.
Rainfall in this area is erratic and extremely low, only 10 — mm during the summer months. In some years, no rain falls at all. The plants are often confined to dry watercourses or next to higher rainfall regions, and they occasionally grow on rocky outcrops. All these habitats point to an additional underground water supply. The plant has a long taproot, allowing it to reach this underground water. There are other interesting environmental adaptations.
The largest plants are found to the south where the rainfall is the least, whereas in the north where the rainfall is higher the plants are much smaller. The most likely reason for this is that the plants in the north have to compete with savannah vegetation whereas those in the south have little or no competition. Another interesting adaptation is the corky bark, which could be the result of thousands of years of exposure to grass fires so commonly associated with savannah.
Antelope and rhino chew the leaves for their juice during times of drought, and spit out the tough fibres. They also eat the soft part near the groove. This luckily does not damage the plant as they simply grow out again from the meristematic tissue.
The core, especially of the female plant, was used as food for people in earlier times. It is said to be very tasty either raw or baked in hot ashes, and this is how it got its Herero name, onyanga, which means onion of the desert. The story goes that he was so overcome by his find that he knelt down next to it and simply stared!
Thomas Baines, the renowned artist and traveller, also found a plant in the dry bed of the Swakop River in Namibia in Hooker described it and named it in honour of Welwitsch, despite the fact that Welwitsch recommended that it be named Tumboa, its native Angolan name. Its species name mirabilis means marvellous or wonderful in Latin. The specific name was later changed to bainesii to honour both men involved in its discovery, although mirabilis is the name recognized today.
Because it is so different from other gymnosperms, Welwitschia was placed in its own family in a small order of gymnosperms called the Gnetales. It shares this order with two other families each containing one genus: All three genera can stand by themselves, and the relationships between them are remote.
There is nothing else like them, and of the three, Welwitschia is the most remote. Off in the LRs after an hour and a Korhaan is right across the road for us to photograph.
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Yea, we will be on it for most of the day. At Khorixas capital of Damaraland we stop for gas and bathroom. AKA sun spider — an arachnid. As we head almost due north we gain in elevation, therefore more moisture available and therefore trees appear. The mopane woodland gets pretty darn thick. We hit some termite mounds for the first time — they appear to be pretty much leaning north toward the sun. We have a photo stop for a nice white browed weaver nest and several vintage cars roll by us.
I see fires in several places and Corna says they harvest the black thorn acacia for charcoal. It is a pest and degrades the pasture for the cattle. We turn right at Outjo and head east to Otjiwarongo and then out to the Cheetah Conservation Foundation.
I am sure it is pretty moving for her. She says it looks the same!
Up over the hill and we see the famous Waterberg Mountains. There is not water on this side only the other. Arrive at CCF and order our simple lunch of chips and sandwiches and then a tour with Gephardt. To the VC and a short movie featuring Laurie very charismatic lady and then to watch the cheetahs being fed. Perfect timing I must say. Retrace our steps at — white backed vultures, Marabou stork. Another stop for gas at Outjo and then we have about 80 minutes to go to Andersons Camp in the Ongava Game Reserve just outside the Etosha NP gate which is only 20 minutes away.
Welcome drink and nice wet washcloths greet us as usual. Jimmy and Sakkie give us our orientation and we check into our lovely cabins. Nice architecture and green building. Nicer than John and Lisa thought it was going to be. Water acacia in full yellow flower on the calcrete. We watch the full moon rise. Double banded sand grouse, BB Jackal, Cape Turtle work harder dove, many guinea fowl, rufouscheeeked nightjars, common duiker are around the lit up water hole artificial but nice.
The best food that we have had so far. Elaine is one of the managers. Queenie is one of our waitresses. We get a great look at a scorpion which is scurrying around on the floor.
To our rooms and then immediately we have a knock at our door and there is a rhino at the waterhole. We all dress and rush out and have great looks through the scope in the moonlight at the magnificent creature. The Italians are not as loud as we are!! So much for stereotypes! Spotted hyenas and other sounds during the night. Dreams a plenty for many. Actually got a bit chilly in the night. Apparently according to Elaine this has been the first cool weather in three weeks. Melba finch, gabar goshawk, fork tailed Drongo, red billed quelas, cinnamon breasted bunting, golden breasted bunting.
Off at through the Ongava Game reserve started by 4 owners as a hunting venture from 4 cattle farms. Now in partnership with WS to do eco tours. Lion and hyena researcher with a flat tire and no he does NOT want help. Next it is a giraffe all by herself, black faced impalas, northern black korhaan and some feisty ground squirrels with very big testicles! At we are parked by the castle-like watch tower, many tourists here.
Southern masked weaver, wattled starlings, white bellied sun bird. Glad we are staying out of the park. This place is set up for self drive folks. Easy to go all by yourself. Kinda weird for me after all the game parks in Tanzania. We head southeast toward Olifantbad Elephant bath. A very large group of oryx.